The fire horse greets everyone at the beginning of Nanchang Street. [Photo provided by Gabrielle Chen to en.wuxi.gov.cn]
On the 15th day of the first month of the traditional Chinese calendar, the first full moon of the year marks the end of the Spring Festival celebrations. This is Lantern Festival, symbolizing the return of spring and the unity of family. Fireworks and an abundance of festive foods await. I decide to join these celebrations in Wuxi – the allure of Lantern Festival is too great to remain at home today.
As I first step onto Nanchang Street, I am greeted by a towering lantern in the shape of a fiery horse. The sounds of hundreds of people moving about create the illusion that the horse itself is galloping through the crowd. Red lanterns line the streets, casting a warm, fiery glow over everything. It is nothing short of breathtaking. I continue down the street as children pass by carrying lanterns on sticks, their smiling faces illuminated by the soft light. The scent of fresh flowers decorates every corner, mingling with the aroma of treats prepared especially for the occasion. Despite the large crowd, there is an unexpectedly calm atmosphere tonight – as if I am in the living room of Wuxi itself, surrounded by an extended family.
The author snaps a selfie of a yummy pancake. [Photo provided by Gabrielle Chen to en.wuxi.gov.cn]
Young women dressed in hanfu wander through the lantern-lit streets in search of the perfect photograph, while children search for the perfect lantern. I find myself on a different kind of quest – in search of the perfect treat! I come across a vendor selling something I have never seen before. A cone? A cup? A pastry? It is filled with custard. Warm, with a crispy exterior and a sweet, soft center, it is absolutely delicious. So entranced am I by its flavor that I lose myself in the crowd, never learning its name or where to find another. Onward to the next treat!
The author holds a lantern while admiring the ones hung above. [Photo provided by Gabrielle Chen to en.wuxi.gov.cn]
I have been hearing about something called tangyuan – sweet glutinous rice balls with a sesame center. Curiosity has gotten the better of me. I have seen them all over my friends' social media feeds today, and I am determined to try some. I make up my mind. My only mission tonight is to find this treat. Determined, I march down Nanchang Street in search of the coveted dessert. I pass vendor after vendor with no luck. What I do find are beautiful lanterns, smiling faces, and another recently discovered treat made of blown sugar. Being here is like witnessing a dual reality – the old traditions of a historic district set against the backdrop of towering modern buildings. It gives the impression of existing both in the past and the future. I continue my hunt.
A beautiful performance on Nanchang Street as seen from the bridge. [Photo provided by Gabrielle Chen to en.wuxi.gov.cn]
I soon find myself at the top of a picturesque bridge crowded with people, all straining for a glimpse of something happening just across the water. This is what we have all gathered to see: A performance of Chinese intangible cultural heritage. Dancers take center stage as traditional music rings out, commanding everyone's attention. They move in ways I never imagined possible, forming intricate shapes with their arms. Then I hear violins and classical music. Looking more closely, I notice the words "Wuxi City of Music" displayed beneath the stage, and my heart melts. They are playing classical music! My husband would love this! I feel a swell of pride knowing that he and most of my friends perform with the local orchestra. When the show ends, I think to myself, "Why did I come up here?" Oh, right – I was crossing the bridge in search of my treat!
The search continues, guided only by my sense of smell. It leads me to a stall selling scallion pancakes. Intrigued, the vendor asks where I am from. "America!" I shout back. A small crowd gathers around us, people hungry from their long walk through the lantern-lit streets also finding their way here. "How much?" I ask, my mouth watering at the delicious aroma. "Eight yuan!" he replies. "Okay!" I pay using my phone. He laughs and gestures to the long line of customers I had mistaken for onlookers simply watching him cook. My cheeks flush as red as the lanterns around me as I make my way to the back of the line.
Crowded Nanchang Street. [Photo provided by Gabrielle Chen to en.wuxi.gov.cn]
While waiting, I take the opportunity to slow down and absorb the scenery. It is remarkably beautiful here. I doubt any photograph could truly capture the magic of this place. Finally, I receive my pancake and step aside. Determined not to forget its name this time, I snap a picture before taking a bite. Fireworks explode across my tongue. It is spicy, savory, crispy, fragrant—absolutely delectable! I turn to find the crowd watching my reaction. "Hěn hǎo chī!" I exclaim. Everyone laughs, waves, and gives me a thumbs up.
The author's curious cat, Friday, is keen to taste some tangyuan. [Photo provided by Gabrielle Chen to en.wuxi.gov.cn]
It is time to head home. I call a taxi, wondering to myself where everyone found those elusive tangyuan. That is, until I walk through my front door and find my husband waiting for me with a special treat he made himself. Finally, I got to try tangyuan and they were delicious.
The author, Gabrielle Chen, hailing from Kansas City, Kansas, the United States, has lived in Wuxi since 2024, accompanying her husband. She enjoys writing, traveling, and photography.
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